Aristophanes, in
Clouds[sc. uses the phrase].[1]
kestreai are not the same as
kestreis ["mullets"]; instead, some think that murries [
myrainai] are called
kestrai; others say it is not those, but a different kind of fish. Nowadays though we know as
kestreis the
kephaloi.[2]
The slice of large mullets referred to, is namely [a slice] of prized and magnificent fish.[3] The [word] "slice" is also said of flat cakes, never of wheat.[4]
And [there is] a proverb: "the mullet fasts";[5] concerning those who act honestly, and for that very reason end up worse off. And who walk away with nothing more than justice; for the fish too is clean.[6]
[1]
Aristophanes,
Clouds 339; Doric genitive plural of
κέστρα . The word
κέστρα is also glossed in
Hesychius: "defensive weapon, hammer. And a kind of fish".
Photius glosses it as
μύραινα , "murry". The phrase is also cited (in Attic) in
tau 295.
[2] Definition taken from the
scholia vetera. The scholiast attempts a distinction between
κέστρα [~
κεστρέα ] and
κεστρεύς . On
κεστρέα , see
kappa 1430.
Both fish names derive from the literal meaning of
κέστρα , "hammer". In LSJ,
κέστρα is a
σφύραινα (also a "hammer" fish, as identified by
Athenaeus,
Deipnosphists 7.323A-C [7.122 Kaibel]), and a
σφύραινα is either a "bicuda" ("Sphyraena spet") -- or a
κέστρα . Dalby 2003 s.v. barracuda identifies the
κέστρα and the
σφύραινα with the Sphyraena Sphyraena, the European barracuda, called
spet in French.
The
κεστρεύς on the other hand is defined in LSJ as a mullet, and the
κέφαλος a kind of mullet. So LSJ does not commit to the identity of the
κέστρα and the
κεστρεύς . On the
κεστρεύς see also
kappa 1432. On the identification with the
κέφαλος , see
kappa 1431.
[3] This gloss appears unique to the Suda.
[4] Mangling of a prescription in
Phrynichus 12: "One will not correctly say
τέμαχος "slice" of meat, cake, or bread, but
τόμος ;
τέμαχος is said only of fish." By the time the phrase ends up in the
scholia vetera on
Aristophanes,
Clouds 339b, it is rearranged: "
τέμαχος is said of fish and cake; never of meat". Though the Suda takes up the scholiast's prescription, "meat" is here substituted with "wheat", and in
tau 295 with "peas".
[5] The "fasting mullet" (
νῆστις κεστρεύς ), a commonplace of Comedy (
kappa 1432), is expanded out to the sentence given, "the mullet fasts", in
Athenaeus,
Deipnosophists 7.307C [7.79 Kaibel],
Plutarch,
Proverbs used by the Alexandrians 1.8,
Pausanias,
Ἀττικῶν ὀνομάτων συναγωγή κ .29,
Libanius, Letters 332.2, Patriarch Gregory II, Proverbs 2.90,
Apostolius 9.76. In LSJ s.v.
κεστρεύς , it is glossed as "of those too honest to make gains". The proverb is interpreted differently in Diogenian 5.53 (Mazarin codex): "concerning the greedy, who pretend to fast; for the animal is insatiable" (on the gluttony of mullets, discussed in
Aristotle, see
kappa 1432).
The two interpretations are merged together in Diogenian 3.1 (Vienna codex) and
Zenobius 4.52; in Diogenian's wording: "concerning the very greedy. [
Zenobius adds: For the mullet is so insatiable, that as a results those who gape and drink were called mullets, being greedy.] But it is also said concerning those who act honestly, but walk away with nothing more than justice. For while other fish eat each other, the mullet alone abstains from eating flesh, and feeds on mud". The Suda's wording combines
Pausanias for the first sentence, and Diogenian for the second. The proverbial saying is also glossed in
Photius s.v.
κεστρεῖς , whose wording overlaps with the Suda.
[6] Namely "not carnivorous", as Diogenian,
Zenobius, and
Athenaeus already indicate; see
kappa 1432.
Dalby, A. 2003. Food in the Ancient World from A to Z. Routledge.
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